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 Full guide for KJW and Tanaka

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Geist
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PostSubject: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:34 pm

One of the biggest problems with gas rifles despite who makes them is the inconsistency of their FPS. This is due to the fact that construction methods only allow low pressure "propane" based gases to be used. These gases suffer from the same problem. PV=nRT also known as the "Ideal Gas Law". In laymen terms it means: when gas is removed from a tank the pressure inside is lowered as is the temperature. The pressure will not return to its original state until the temperature inside reaches its original temperature. So when firing a gas gun the pressure after each shot my vary causing BB's to have inconsistent ranges due to spikes or ebbs in pressure as well as different effects caused by a BB striking a hopup at speeds for which is was not originally tuned.

The Tanaka M700 accidently helped alleviate this problem with their original PCS adjustable bolt. Intended to help to adjust velocity, it incidently provided some gas regulation despite only really being a modified gas restriction nozzle. The KJW M700 which is a clone of the Tanaka simplified the bolt for cost purposes and left out this feature. This made the KJW model VERY susceptible to inconsistencies from the lack of regulation. Either way though both brands still suffer this affect when firing off quick shots in succession. The best solution currently available to fix this problem altogether is an externally regulated gas source.

The following will give step by step instructions on how to drill and tap a KJW/Tanka magazine, attach fittings, mount the rig, and adjustment while doing so CHEAPLY.

Drilling and Tapping

Tools Needed

1 Hand drill or drill press
2 blocks of wood *note: only needed if using a hand drill
1 C-clamp *note: only needed if using a hand drill
1 Phillips screwdriver
1 adjustable wrench
1 1/8 - 11/32 tap *note the tip starts at 11/32 and expands out to a full 1/8
1 11/32 drill metal drill bit *note NOT A 1/8 DRILL BIT
1 can of tapping oil or spray on silicone based oil (you can use airsoft gun lube just fine)

*optional:
-1 1/8 gas fixture *Since the metal is soft and will warp if repeated screwed/unscrewed I prefer to have a fixture which gives me more flexibility for future addons. If you screw an airhose directly into a magazine it will work fine but you might have other ideas for later. Fixtures can be found in any hardware store, are made of brass, and cost $1 or less. Its best to ask for SEAMLESS fixtures although most usually are already.

-teflon tape of loktite sealing adhesive



The first item of business is to disassemble the magazine. If you look at the back end where the striker plate is located you will notice 4 screws.
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:36 pm

Remove these screws and keep them in a safe place. You don't want to lose them. Next you will remove the backplate. The backplate is NOT glued to the magazine. Instead there is a rubber O-ring inside sealing it from the inside. It will take a bit of pressure to remove the backplate but there aren't any loose pieces that will just fall out (if there are when you pull yours out it might have been damaged). Check the 0-ring for any damage or just wear and tear. Below is a picture of what the backplate and arm look like. The little arm at the end should be sitting in an L position when you replace it. REMEMBER THAT!

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:38 pm

Now if you're using a hand drill and I imagine many of you are then you'll want to secure the magazine with the wooden blocks and C-clamp as shown in the picture below. The blocks have to be of the same size of course to ensure an even area. If you look at the picture closely you can see some small dents. These were pilot dents which are where I'll start drilling. Most people drill straight down the middle/center of the magazine but I decided to go a bit more towards the back where the backplate is locate

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:39 pm

This part was optional but its still good for those inexperienced in this type of work. From the pilot dents I started my "pilot hole". The pilot hole is basically a smaller hole that will be used as a guide for the larger main drill bit. This isn't necessary but it makes it much much easier to drill later. Since the pilot hole is smaller I can afford to expand it out a bit more if I screw up and drill at an angle in order to fix such a mistake. It also makes it easier to drill with the larger bit. As you can also see I'm cheating since I have access to a cheap drill press.

*The magazine is made of thick aluminum. This is a soft metal so you will want to drill slowly. Putting alot of weight and pressure while drilling leads to the bit becoming caught in the metal. This of course can make you loose control of a hand drill which can damage the drill bit. And while rare occurance a broken drill bit lodged in your magazine is not a good thing. Slow and easy may take longer but it keeps you from having accidents and it lets you keep that the angle is being drilled straight.

**Note: While the can looks similar that is NOT WD-40 being sprayed on the hole. WD-40 should be kept away from your rubber O-rings.

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:41 pm

Here is the actual hole being drilled using the 11/32 drill bit. The smaller pilot hole will keep it straight and make the drilling go alot faster since there is less metal to deal with. Once the hole is completely drilled you'll want to deburr the edges. This basically means removing any bits of metal or sharp edges around the entry and exit holes.

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:43 pm

Ok you've got your hole drilled. Now comes the truly important part of tapping the threads into the hole. The tapping doesn't necessarily have to be 100% straight to be functional. However, it will eliminate any future problems that may arise due to one side having shallower threads.

First take your tap and insert it into the hole. Line it up as best and you can and then with hand pressure alone try to twist the tap into the hole. This will lock it into place and you can really check the angle of the tap in the hole. Align as necessary. Once its aligned and you have once again used hand pressure to secure it in the hole its time to break out the wrench. Attach it to the top of the tap as seen in the picture below. While holding it steady give it one full rotation. Check your alignment. If its off a bit you can back the tap out of the hole and retry. Try to keep the retries to a minimum. A few won't hurt it really since you'll be really biting deep into it once you screw it in deeper. Its best to have a slightly slanted hole than a dozen tries which have chopped up the hole walls badly.

Start more rotations. Now that you've started to bite into the metal you can remove the small wrench and throw on something larger (I pulled out a medium sized monkey wrench) to help you rotation the tap easier. You'll need to rotate the tap all the way to the end of the thread blades.

*note: when cutting the threads its best to go forward a little bit then back up a hair. Puuuuuussh, back up. Rinse and repeat.

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:46 pm

Remove the tap by backing it out the way it came. Check the edges and deburr and necessary.

Congradulations, you have a tapped magazine. The rest is easy.


Adding a fixture is easy.

First clean the threads of both the tapped magazine and the fixture itself by simple brushing and blowing. Next is personal preference. You can wrap the threads in teflon tape or you can coat it in Loktite adhesive. The Loktite or similar products like teflon provide a seal around the threads to keep any gas/air from escaping. Loktite though makes it much more difficult to remove the fixture from its hole. This is beneficial since a sniper rifle can be dragged through all kinds of terrain which might catch, pull, or twist on air hose thereby weakening its seal. Teflon tape does a fine job and many people have used it without any incident. However, I'm paranoid and decided to take no chances so I went back and replaced the teflon with Loktite.

Since the threads taper into a smaller diameter it becomes harder to screw in the fixture. The tapering ensures that the fixture (or air hose) is fitted tightly and makes a better seal. It will require you to use a wrench as seen in the picture below. Unfortunately with soft metals like aluminum if you keep screwing an item in and out of a tapered hole the hole will stretch and become bigger. In other words try not to keep screwing things in and out.

Below are pics of a completed fixture. Note in pic two how little actually protrudes inside the magazine. This should give you an idea of how thick is the magazine. Its also shallow enough that it won't affect the rocker arm nor spring which will be directly approve the hole.
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:47 pm

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:48 pm

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:49 pm

Now its time to reassemble the magazine.

First make sure there are no little pieces of aluminum sitting inside. The last thing you want is a chuck of metal getting stuck in the rubber air seal causing a bad leak. Use a soft brush or a dry terry cloth (towel) to brush the inside. Use compressed air if possible. If you don't have any you can use a straw and lots of strong breath. Yes it will work as thats exactly what I did with this magazine.

Next using a Q-tip lightly coat the o-ring at the front of the magazine with a light coat of silicone oil. Light is the key word as lots of oil will end up getting spewed into your barrel and hopup bucking. Be sure to do with same thing with the larger O-ring on the backplate. This will increase its life and reduce future leaks.

Next you will insert the backplate. Remember that the the L shaped thing at the end should be set like an L when you insert the backplate. The very end will slip into a small slot at the front. You might have a few problems keeping the tip in the upright L position. Basic logic suggest that this is easiest accomplished by holding the magazine upside down. Its actually fairly easy to insert the entire thing back into place.

The L piece is basically an actuator. When the striker plate is struck it causes the plunger arm (shiny metal rod) to hit the top tip of the L forcing it downwards. The bottom tip which was in a slot at the front of the magazine pushes down on a gas seal allowing gas to exist the magazine.

*tip: Take some barge cement, liquid cement, or plumbers glue and add a thin layer around the edge of the backplate before completely closing. When screwed back in backplate will no have a better seal which eliminates any extra leakage. This will cure small leaks which are inherent with both KJW and Tanaka magazine but not catastrophic failures of the O-ring inside. If after all of this is done and you'e still getting leaks then your O-ring needs immediate replacing.
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:51 pm

Ok now you have a magazine with a big fat hole in it and a fitting. What do you do next? The next stage is much simpler and does not require anything more complicated than a wrench.

Parts list

1 1/2inch to 1/8inch Reducer (can be bought at a hardware shop) *$1.50
1 double sided 1/8inch threaded pipe, 1/2inch long (shorter may impede different tanks) *$0.50
1 Low Pressure Regulator of your choice *price varies
1 paintball coiled hose *$30
1 roll teflon tape or Quicktite/Loctite


Optional parts

1 Slide on/off valve (aka "slide check") *$10
1 1/8inch male and female quick disconnect set *$1.00
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:52 pm

Assembly

First thing we are going to do is disassemble the coiled air hose. You'll end up with a hose with two threaded 1/8inch ends on each side, 1 female tank cap (where your tank screws in), and whatever you had at the connecting side (probably a 1/2 male cap with 1/8inch threaded hole). We are going to rearrange these parts to suit our needs. If your female tank cap has an on/off knob on top like mine did (see blue knob) then go ahead and screw it all the way in. The knob is sealed so having it unscrewed isn't going to cause leaks. However, you don't want to hear rattling and you want everything that can catch on stuff to be as compact as possible.

Apply some teflon tape or Quicktite to the threads of your double sided 1/2inch long pipe. 3 or 4 tight wraps is sufficient for the teflon, but in the case of Quicktite don't go overboard and throw gobs of the stuff onto the threads. Screw one side into the female tank cap nice and snug. If you used Quicktite let it sit for about a minute or two in order to let the adhesive set. Next screw your Low Pressure Regulator into the other side until it is also nice and snug. Make sure the two pieces are aligned with each other. If you used teflon gently attempt to twist the two pieces. If you get some good resistance then you should have very little to worry about in the case of one side coming loose. As you can see in the picture below I used teflon tape.
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:54 pm

Now grab your 1/2inch to 1/8inch reducer and your coil hose. Using teflon or Quicktite attach your hose to the reducer. Simple! Your reducer will now attach to your regulator.
*note: you'll want to add some Quicktite or teflon to the threads of your Low Pressure Regulator. This isn't to seal against leaks. The O-ring at the regulator's neck will handle that. This is merely to keep the reducer and regulator from unscrewing due to jostling. Do NOT cover the O-ring at the neck with teflon or Quicktite.
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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:55 pm

Congratulations! Your CO2/HPA air rig is complete. Now you just need to decide how you want to attach it to your magazine and adjust the pressure. You can screw the threaded end of the hose to the magazine fitting, screw straight into the magazine without a fitting, or attach the optional quick disconnect set for easy removal and storage.

Here is a picture of my recently completed air rig using a 12gr quick changer. I can swap that out for a full 20oz CO2 tank or a 48ci HPA tank with no problems. The 1/2inch long connector pipe provides plenty of clearance for larger tanks.

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:56 pm

Here are a pair pictures of someone else's completed air rigs with a quick disconnect, slide check on/off, and a pressure gauge (the hose is resting on top of the gauge).

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:18 pm

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PostSubject: Re: Full guide for KJW and Tanaka   Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:56 pm

Please remember to be safe...



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