OK my airsmith noob is showing

There's a comma there. Lipos don't kill people. People, lipos kill.

I know that. I was being a smart ass.

It was more for Shar's benefit then yours.

You guys are hifukinglarious....


The 35c Lipo was for testing purposes, and then I switched to a 25c Lipo... The 35c is the one that has caused the most problems so far.... The ICS goes through BB's just fine on my 10.8v batteries and my 9.6v battery.. So I am leaning toward the Lipo being to root of the problem after I got the shimming right.

And FTR, when I decided to go Lipo, I also decided to spend the money to keep the guns running. I saw it as part of my evolution.. I have learned a lot this week alone about airsmithing. I am sure that Lipo ready means extremely good shimming, and something in the wiring to ensure it can handle the current that flows...


I just ordered a 7.4v Lipo... If that can give me the performance I was seeing from my 9.6v 4000mah NIMH then that will be my power source for now on. So i will have all the voltages covered for now on.. 8.4, 9.6, 10.8, 11.1, and 12v.

With gears, Pistons, and Batteries being so inexpensive I am comfy as hell running hi voltages..

I've recently bought a 35C lipo as well (40 burst)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290419732262&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It really doesn't seem to push out any more power than the 11.1 V 25C with 30 burst rating I already had. I am wondering a little if the seller stretched the truth a bit and 35C is the burst rather than the continuous. Then again, every other seller of this same exact battery claims the same stats so maybe it's a misprint from the original manufacturer...

As for heat I've found that the faster I seem to allow the motor to turn under load (thanks to high speed gears) and as such the more stress more often being put onto the motor (pulling the piston and releasing, pulling it again so fast, 36 times a second to be exact before the motor began to smoke), maybe it's this cycle of high and low amp draw that the motor hates rather than the actual power.

In other words, I wonder if the ROF were dropped thanks to normal gears or a heavier spring or such with the same battery if the motor would be less abused because the "off on, off on" aspect of the amp spikes would be "less" often.

It's interesting for sure. All I know is that I need a new motor too. :-)

On a side note... I'm back to running a 14.8V 20C in the L85. I figured since I usually shoot it in semi with the occasional quick burst (no spraying has ever been done with it) that the battery will not kill the motor for a while. In the meantime, the ROF is well worth having to get a new motor once in a while. :-) At least that's my attitude now... Let's see if that changes after putting it through the paces of a real game and not just shooting out my back door into the pond.

As for the "stats", the gun has a 590 barrel and a full cylinder. The piston is not short stroked and I am running bone stock version 7 gears. The gearbox does have some Kanzen ceramic-steel 7mm bearings but other than that, everything else about the gun is NOT high speed.

It should be known that when people do high speed builds, M4 or shorter length barrels are usually used with an appropriately ported cylinder because the port releases the vacuum in the cylinder and allows for faster piston cycle. The idea of a high speed setup with a 590 barrel and non ported cylinder is in itself quite a feat.

Where things are at now with a slightly burnt G&P M120 motor are 30 rounds a second at 410 FPS. Let is also be known that thanks to a spring I found in the "bag o parts" I got with the M14 from Lero, I can also make the L85 shoot about 505 FPS at what I believe was something like 26-28 a second. I heard the ROF before I saw the FPS and nearly fell over when the two came together.

Don't worry though, I'd never dream of fielding the gun at such power full auto. It's nice to know that said spring will put me right at the DMR level though if I ever decide to toss a pin in there for semi-auto DMR in the future.

So yeah, I'll go 14.8 but only because I've become so addicted to the way it sounds that I have a hard time forgetting. I'll also only do it in that gun because it's "safe"

No problem fireman... lol
I actually just bought a ultra high speed gear set (13.1) and a full metal tooth piston and silent piston head with a modify amazing anti reversal latch, m120 motor, m100 spring to make my FN2000 the perfect CQB gun.
It has to shoot more than 27 rps because thats what it did on the STOCK gears... only time will tell.
Everything comes in friday so i will do a quick vid when i get them.

You also bought some shims... right?

and shims and grease. but i already have some shims

I like the shim job

Update on the Ehco 1 build... Had to put a pause on the build.. Turns out the Gearbox needs to be replaced, the portion for the grip to screw into was stripped in one screw, and the Grip does not keep the motor in place when height is adjusted.. I should have noticed this earlier, but oh well..

Ordered a replacement Gearbox with 8mm bearings... Since this is going to be a high speed setup I figured I would up the anty a bit.

8mm bearing GB
13:1 SHS gearset
Bravo Piston
E-F MOSFET
Madbull TBB (363mm 6.03mm)
Element Bore up kit (for 363 inner barrel)
SCS Nub
Systema Bucking
5KU Hi Speed Motor (Same as G&P M120, so I hear... Testing with this one)
Lipo

This combo of parts should put me in the 35 rps realm, maybe higher, I have never used these Gears b4, so it may be/should be higher ROF.. I reached 35 rps with a similar build using stock ratio gears.

Do you like those Systema buckings? I've only used the Madbull, but I'm interested to know what is out there.

Yes, they have been great. I have only used them in conjunction with SCS Nubs, but I suspectthey would well with any Nub..

my damn full metal tooth, poly carb piston just broke...

I saw a crazy aluminum piston with steel teeth that I was very tempted to buy. It looked like a tank of a piston. Your gearbox would melt like when you stare at the ark before that piston would do anything.

i had one, but it doesnt fit in the m14 gearbox as well in the version 2. so it sorta striped some teeth.

Bob might be able to do something with it. He could probably machine the piston a little to make it fit, but not weaken it too much.